🖼️ Watercolour Collector Guide

Preserving Original Watercolours

Thank you for investing in an original watercolour .

Your new watercolour is more than art; it’s a piece of Scotland’s story.

Follow these expert tips to ensure its beauty endures for generations.

I hope this guide inspires you to care for these works as lovingly as they were created.

John Gerrie

Do’s and Don’ts for Framed and Unframed Originals

The guide covers:

  • General care for unframed watercolours.
  • General care for framed watercolours.
  • Specific tips for textured paper like Bockingford NOT.
  • A checklist for archival framing.
  • Annual inspection

You can download the PDF file directly using the button below.

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✅ THE DO’S:

  • DO hang your watercolour on an interior wall. Exterior walls can be colder and more prone to moisture, which can lead to condensation inside the frame.
  • DO choose a spot with no direct sunlight. This is the number one rule. UV rays are the primary cause of fading and are irreversible. A north-facing wall often receives the least direct light.
  • DO use UV-protective glazing. When framing, insist on glass or acrylic (Plexiglas) that filters out 97-99% of UV rays. “Museum Glass” is the best option, as it is both UV-protective and anti-reflective.
  • DO ensure there is a mat or spacer between the art and the glass. The watercolour paper must never touch the glass. Direct contact can lead to moisture transfer, mould growth, and the artwork sticking to the glass.
  • DO maintain a stable environment. Aim for a relative humidity of 40-55% and a stable room temperature. Avoid hanging art where temperatures fluctuate dramatically.
  • DO dust the frame and glazing regularly with a soft, dry microfiber cloth. If you need to clean the glass, spray a small amount of cleaner onto the cloth, not directly onto the glass, to prevent it from seeping into the frame package.

❌ THE DON’TS:

  • DON’T hang a watercolour in direct sunlight. Even a few hours a day can cause noticeable fading in a matter of months or years.
  • DON’T hang it directly above a heat source like a radiator, fireplace, or heat vent. The heat and dry air will make the paper brittle.
  • DON’T hang it in a high-humidity area like a bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. The moisture can cause the paper to ripple (cockle) and encourage mould and mildew growth.
  • DON’T use bright spotlights (especially halogen) on the artwork. If you wish to light it, use low-wattage, low-UV LED lights placed at a distance.
  • DON’T ignore signs of trouble. If you see condensation, small black spots (mould), or insects inside the frame, take it to a professional framer immediately for inspection and refitting.
  • DON’T store a framed piece leaning against a wall on the floor for long periods. It’s an accident waiting to happen and can cause the frame to warp. Store it standing upright in a safe, dry location.

A Quick Guide to Archival Framing

When you take your watercolour to a framer, make sure they use the following materials. This is the ultimate “DO” for long-term care.

  1. Glazing: UV-filtering glass or acrylic.
  2. Matboard: 100% rag mat or, at a minimum, acid-free, lignin-free alpha-cellulose matboard.
  3. Hinging: The artwork should be attached to the backboard with archival Japanese paper hinges and acid-free wheat starch paste, allowing it to hang freely and expand/contract with humidity changes. It should never be dry-mounted or taped on all four sides.
  4. Backing Board: An acid-free foam core or backing board.
  5. Sealing: The back of the frame should be sealed with a dust cover to keep out dust, debris, and insects.

Tips Specific to the “NOT” (Cold Press) Surface

The distinct texture is beautiful but can be a trap for dirt and is susceptible to damage.

✅ THE DO’S:

  • DO be extra careful when dusting. If the painting is unframed, use a very soft, clean artist’s brush (like a large, soft hake or squirrel mop brush) to gently whisk away any surface dust. A cloth can snag on the paper’s texture.
  • DO use a protective slip-sheet like acid-free glassine or tissue paper when storing it unframed. This is even more important with textured paper to prevent the surface of one painting from imprinting on or abrading the back of another if they are stored in a stack.
  • DO insist on a deep mat or spacers when framing. The “hills” of the NOT surface must be kept well away from the glazing (glass/acrylic). If any part of the textured paper touches the glass, changes in humidity can cause it to stick, which is catastrophic to remove.

❌ THE DON’TS:

  • DON’T ever rub the surface, even gently with a cloth. You risk flattening the distinctive texture in that spot, which will alter how the light catches the surface and can make the area look dull or polished. You can also inadvertently lift pigment that is sitting on top of the paper’s “hills.”
  • DON’T place it face-down on any surface, even for a moment. Debris on a table could get embedded in the paper’s texture or cause a dent.

Art Inspection Tips: A Proactive Checklist

A regular inspection (annually is a good rhythm) can help you spot problems before they cause permanent damage. Take the frame off the wall and place it on a soft, clean surface (like a towel on a table) in good light.

Here is a step-by-step guide on what to look for.

1. The Frame & Hanging Hardware (Structural Safety)

  • ☐ Frame Corners: Are the mitred corners still tight and flush? Or are they separating? A gap can compromise the frame’s strength and the seal.
  • ☐ Frame Surface: Look for new chips, scratches, or cracks.
  • ☐ Hanging Wire: Check for any fraying or rust. Is it securely attached?
  • ☐ Screws/D-Rings: Wiggle the screws holding the wire. Are they loose? Over time, they can work their way out of the wood.

2. Inside the Frame Package (The Micro-Environment)

This is the most critical part of the inspection. Look closely through the glass/acrylic.

  • ☐ Condensation: Is there any fog or moisture on the inside of the glass? This is a red flag indicating a significant humidity problem.
  • ☐ Debris or Insects: Do you see any small black specks (common with “thunderbugs”), dust, or, worst of all, tiny insects inside the frame? This means the seal is broken and needs to be fixed.
  • ☐ Mould or Mildew: Look for fuzzy spots, usually black, green, or white, on the artwork or mat. This is an emergency. The art needs to be unframed by a professional immediately to halt the damage.
  • ☐ Paper Condition:
    • Rippling (Cockling): Has the paper become wavy or buckled? This indicates exposure to humidity.
    • Slippage: Has the artwork slipped down from behind the mat? This means a hinge has failed.
  • ☐ Mat Condition: Look at the white bevelled edge of the mat where it meets the artwork. Is it turning brown or yellow? This is a sign the mat is not archival and its acid is “burning” the edge of your painting.

3. The Artwork Itself (Fading & Health)

  • ☐ Color Fading: This is the hardest to spot. The best way to track this is to take a good quality, color-accurate photo of your artwork when you first get it. You can then compare it to the original a few years later. Fading often appears first in delicate colours like pinks, purples, and light blues.

4. The Back of the Frame

  • ☐ Dust Cover: Is the paper on the back torn or punctured? A damaged dust cover allows pests and dust to enter the frame package. It can be easily and cheaply replaced by a framer.
  • ☐ Water Stains: Are there any tide lines or stains on the dust cover? This is evidence of a past or present moisture problem.

What to Do If You Find a Problem

Unless the issue is a simple loose screw you can tighten, the rule is: Take it to a professional conservation framer.

Do not attempt to open the frame yourself. You could accidentally damage the art, release mould spores into your home, or make the problem worse. A professional framer can diagnose the issue and safely unframe, treat, and refit the artwork with the correct archival materials.

🧼 Watercolour Care Tips

🪟 Cleaning of Glass

  • Use a lint-free microfiber cloth.
  • Use ammonia-free glass cleaner or 1:1 distilled water + white vinegar.
  • Spray the cloth, not the glass, to avoid seepage.
  • Wipe gently; do not buff with pressure near the artwork’s edge.

🪩 Cleaning of Perspex

  • Only use microfiber cloths.
  • Use plastic-safe cleaner (e.g. Brillianize or Novus #1).
  • Avoid ammonia-based products to prevent clouding or cracking.

📜 Paper & Paint Longevity

Material

Bockingford NOT
(Acid-Free Wood Pulp)

Paper Expected Lifespan

50–100 years

Pigment Stability

50–200 years (depending on colour and brand)

Framing Required

Yes – UV glass/Perspex essential

Sealed Backing

Prevents dust and moisture ingress

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